Crestone Peak NW couloir

The NW couloir of Crestone peak is easily the most obvious feature on the mountain, maybe the range, and one of the most discernible in the state. If you are of a certain disposition, it begs to be climbed (or ridden, depending on your fancy and competence). It is the opposite side of the current normal route on the mountain, the south couloir, both of which are the result of a bed of relatively weaker red sandstone that finds itself between two much more resistant conglomeritic beds, which rise to form the Peak’s main summits.

The route is accessible from either Spanish creek to the west or South Colony creek to the east. From either one, you will approach and gain the Bear’s playground, a large grassy saddle between the Peak and Obstruction peak, and traverse across the NW face of Crestone peak until you come to the slanting base of the couloir.

I have only been up there in late summer conditions, which offered pretty phenomenal and solid scrambling, despite the chossy reputation of the route. The rock was surprisingly better than I was expecting. The last few feet below the top kick up in steepness. Overall the climbing was mostly 3rd class with probably some 4th at the top. It’s alpine, be careful yo, a fall at any point would be consequential and it is a remote area.

I had traversed from Challenger over Kit, Columbia, and Obstruction, and as it was later in the day I started getting rained on on the summit, and so scratched the idea of also traversing to the needle. The descent of the normal route south couloir was slow because of the wetness but definitely mellower than the north coulie. Fantastic tour of the Peak.

On the summit of Kit in July 2020, looking towards Crestone Peak, with the Dunes and Blanca in the distance. The NW couloir is visible as the gully in the sun-shade line coming down from between the two summits of Crestone Peak.
Bear’s playground and the Peak, with NW couloir visible (again, in the sun-shade line), from somewhere on Obstruction peak. August 2023.
Looking up from the Bear’s playground.
A bit up the slope towards the couloir. It is necessary here to traverse right across the face until you come to the base of the couloir. There are cairns along the traverse, but it’s pretty evident where you need to go.
The red sandstone layer that defines the couloir. Look at those fuckin beautiful sedimentary structures, boiiiiii. Holla at my TX3s, dem bitches be maximum bananas.
Looking up the couloir, from above the kink in the lower couloir. In August 2023, there were still small snow patches and some running water in the couloir proper, but they didn’t affect climbing much, I just stayed on the right edge of the gulley.
Looking down the couloir from high up, Kit et al across the valley.
From the summit looking towards the other summits and the Needle. You can make out the red rock of the couloir in the midground in front of East Crestone.
Looking towards, the valley from atop the Peak, this place is quite wonderful.

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