Mt. Massive NE face

On June 2nd and 4th, 2022, I climbed two routes up the northeast face of Mt. Massive. I was living and working at Outward Bound at the time, located right next to the Leadville fish Hatchery, which provides great access to Massive’s whole east side. The NE face is pretty broad and offers several options, with shorter and steeper gullies at the top of the face. It averages maybe 35 degrees, with some of the gullies at the top of the face reaching maybe 50 degrees. There are also lower angle options across the entire face between North and Main Massive.

I approached via the Highline Trail, which can be gained from the Fish Hatchery, and followed the same general approach for Massive’s East ridge. At the lakes before the trail descends, I turned left on a very faint game trail and climbed into Massive’s broad NE basin, continuing up the low angle valley floor to the bottom of the face.

On Jun3 2nd, there was a fantastic inversion covering the whole upper Arkansas valley. On the 4th, I left at midnight, summited just after 6 AM, and managed to make it back down to the OB base for work at 8:30 AM! It is a phenomenal place to be, high above the Arkansas valley on a remote high alpine face. Hopefully you get to appreciate it as well.

Near the summit looking towards the Buffalo Peaks on June 2.
Looking north from the summit, with Holy Cross in the background.
Looking over towards the Tenmile Range. (not sure what happened to the colors for the next three photos, but it looks cool. It was, however, not apocalyptic and instead beautiful and blue)
Looking south, artistically.
West over the Sawatch towards the Elks.
My route up June 2nd.
The face from North Massive’s NE ridge, after having traversed over from the main summit.
Sunrise on June 4th.
Partially up the face, looking towards North Massive.
Looking up the face. I went up and right of frame this time. You can vaguely see my tracks from two days previous to the left of the small outcropping in the middle
I went up and right on the broad snow face visible, then turned left above some rock ribs.
Looking down from near the top of the face. Wonderful sunrise.
My routes, that of June 2nd in red, that of June 4th in blue. The gully to the left of the red line seems obvious but is littered with avalanche debris by the time the face is in condition.

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